I’ve been using HA for a while; having my home just “do things” for me without asking is fantastic. My lights turn on to exactly the levels I want when I enter a room, my grass and my plants get watered automatically, heating and cooling happens only when it needs to. There are lots of benefits. Plus, it’s just a fun hobby.
One thing I didn’t expect, though, is all the interesting things you can learn when you have sensors monitoring different aspects of you home or the environment.
- I can always tell when someone is playing games or streaming video (provided they’re transcoding the video) from one of my servers. There’s a very significant spike in temperature in my server room, not to mention the increased power draw.
- I have mmWave sensors in an out-building that randomly trigger at night, even though there’s nobody there. Mice, maybe?
- Outdoor temperatures always go up when it’s raining. It’s always felt this way, but now it’s confirmed.
- My electrical system always drops in voltage around 8AM. Power usage in my house remains constant, so maybe more demand on the grid when people are getting ready for work?
- I have a few different animals that like to visit my property. They set off my motion sensors, and my cameras catch them on video. Sometimes I give them names.
- A single person is enough to raise the temperature in an enclosed room. Spikes in temperature and humidity correspond with motion sensors being triggered.
- Watering a lawn takes a lot more water than you might expect. I didn’t realize just how much until I saw exactly how many gallons I was using. Fortunately, I irrigate with stored rain water, but it would make me think twice about wasting city water to maintain a lawn.
- Traditional tank-style water heaters waste a lot of heat. My utility closet with my water heater is always several degrees hotter than the surrounding space.
What have you discovered as a result of your home automation? While the things I mentioned might not be particular useful, they’re definitely interesting, at least to me.
The biggest one was probably a combo of having an anemometer, and heat/humidity sensors in each room.
When it’s cold outside, the top floor of the house (loft conversion) loses more heat. But it loses significantly more heat when it’s cold, and the wind is blowing parallel to the floor joists.
I realised that because they’re not perfectly sealed (old house), enough air pressure means that the floor void can easily hit external temperatures, meaning the rooms have cold on twice as many sides.
I will (eventually) get some suitable insulation in them to stop this.
While not publishing it, my weather station uploads my indoor temperatures to weather underground. The plaintext password is in every packet. It uses unencrypted HTTP.
My TV continues to chatter to random servers on the internet long after it has turned off. It transmits to a telemetry server on every single button press.
My air conditioners drain a lot more power when I haven’t cleaned the filters. It’s almost double.
A chromecast will try to bypass your router’s DNS and go straight to Google’s. It is constantly pulling data even if you’re not using it. I’m fairly certain it’s that slideshow. It’s not cached at all.
@pHr34kY @corroded Not from home automation but from my #pihole installation.
My internet radio tries to send the title of each new song to itunes.apple.com. My smartphone tries to report any new installation / update of SW packages to googletagmanager.com.
Those are among the reasons I use a #pihole in the first place.I just have BIND DNS, but I do capture all DNS traffic and re-route it through my own server. There’s an adblock list on it.
I even set up DoT so my phone uses it for DNS when I’m out of the house.
What’s DoT?
My TV continues to chatter to random servers on the internet long after it has turned off. It transmits to a telemetry server on every single button press.
Home Assistant and OpenWRT to the rescue! (At least for the powered-off telemetry.)
When my TVs are powered off a Home Assistant automation enables a couple of OpenWRT firewall rules. Those rules block all TV Internet access. When the TVs are powered on the firewall rules are automatically disabled and the TVs work normally. That along with Adguard Home’s blocking of all UI ads makes my TVs almost user friendly.
That’s a neat rule. Thanks for sharing!
Couldn’t you achieve the same effect by just having a PiHole?
Adguard Home is a Pi-Hole competitor. They work fine for ad servers, but the content I was trying to reduce couldn’t be blocked that way or the TV’s wouldn’t work. Menu changes were being loaded while the set was off and Roku was inserting some ad content along with menu changes.
To my surprise this setup has reduced menu additions and ads to almost nothing. It seems that these menus aren’t updated when my TV’s are actually in use and that’s now the only time they can connect to the Internet.
The humidity in my apartment is affected far more by cooking than by showering.
Is it the food or just that your extractor fan is bringing in outside air? (Please tell me you cook with an extractor fan!)
I don’t have a fan, but I have a window near my stove. HA’s graphs let me compare the effect of opening the kitchen window by itself vs opening it while cooking, so I can isolate the effects.
Are you cooking on gas?
You might recall that carbohydrates being burned release a lot of H2O.
IME, the humidity from cooking is much much less when using an induction stove
Hydrocarbons. Carbohydrates are in bread, pasta and potatoes.
Oven full of carbohydrates = good
Oven full of hydrocarbons = bad
No, induction.
I haven’t tried to differentiate between cooking involving boiling, steaming, etc. versus sautéing, frying, or other oil-based methods—I assumed the humidity spike was due to the former.
Some apartments can have a charcoal filter hood instead of a fan that extracts directly to the outside, depending on ventilation design. My fan is one of those.
Many many places (it is a trend now) just have extractor fans that simply run through a shitty filter and blow it back into the room. My old rented house (it was just renovated in 2021) was like that along with tons of moisture problems coming from a half-assed renovation (turns out, the church officials were embezzeling a ton of money from the church company that came out a few years later) of a protected monument house from the 1500s.
By recording the electricity use in my house I noticed a 1500 watt spike at a semi-regular interval. It would happen every 50 minutes and lasted for a few minutes. While overall not that much of a draw, it sort of drove me crazy not knowing what it was…
Then I discovered that it was our septic system’s effluent pump (the leach field is up on a hill). The pump was turning on way too often because ground water was leaking into the pump chamber. It’s not supposed to do that. The tank was about 45 years old, so not a huge surprise really.
Basically, my home automation (or tracking, really) lead to an $8k concrete tank replacement (more or less, as we had the guy do some additional stuff while he was here).
That’s not really a bad thing though. Maintaining your house is very important. Our well had failed a coliform test the previous year, and I’ve yet to get it re-tested to see if the new tank fixed that little problem. I’ve been giving everything some time to settle down.
My old furnace was hilariously oversized for the house.
One of the nifty things about smart thermostats like Ecobees is that you can pull usage data from their web portal. I grabbed a CSV file covering a cold snap last year that reached a 100-year record low, and using Excel I summed up the total heat output while we were at that low.
The furnace was only running 50% of the time, even when it was with a couple degrees of as cold as it’s ever been where I live.
Needless to say, when I got a new system installed I made sure it was more properly sized, and given that I had a convenient empirical measurement of exactly how many btus I actually needed in the worst case as scenario, that was easily done.
Not sure if you got this idea from Technology Connections but he recently didn a video using this exact premise.
I checked HA and found that A) my furnace fan is likely dying as the furnace overheats and power cycles frequently and B) despite the overheating, or furnace has only run at most 25% of the day during the coldest temps we’ve gotten this winter (which has been mild and only down into the low 30s). I think if/when we replace the furnace we can safely cut the BTU rating down while still maintaining our desired temperature.
Having an oversized furnace really isn’t a bad thing, and only having it run half the time sounds like a good thing to me.
That was in a worst case scenario though. I’d expect my furnace to reach closer to 80% duty cycle in a once in a lifetime cold front.
Even 100% on the coldest day is not per se an issue provided additional heat can be used. Space heaters, gas fire places, and baking being big ones.
Well, if cheating is allowed…
It’s better to have it max out in a 100 year cold snap, as they don’t happen too often, and it’s ok to drop a few degrees when that happens. Much more important to save money on your heat pump investment than spend thousands worrying about weather that never happens.
Technology Connections video about this problem:
I thought working 100% for hours on end wasn’t recommended for a residential unit. Love me a Technology Connections episode, thanks!
yeah, I could be wrong, but that was the takeaway I got from the video, yeah. I have district heating so I don’t have first hand experience.
A little headroom ain’t bad, but it had three times the required heating capacity for my area’s “design day” low, which meant that for most of the winter it was kicking on for maybe 5-10 minutes per hour and then leaving massive cold spots in the house, because the thermostat was smack in the middle and all the walls were bleeding heat.
My new heat pump is just about 2x the design day heat requirement, but that also means it’s got capacity to handle extreme lows without resorting to resistance heat, and in any case it’s fully modulating so the house has stayed quite comfortable so far.
It wears out the furnace doing short butts and the house doesn’t get heated evenly. I had the original furnace from 1968. When I upgraded everything with insolation and better windows, I went from a 80,000 BTU on/off furnace to a 40,000 but modular furnace. No more sweating after 10min and then cold. Just evenly bring up the temp over a longer time. https://youtu.be/DTsQjiPlksA
That technology connections video is great. It’s crazy how oversized heating systems are, especially when it costs us so much money.
Evcept you spend more on it for no reason
One of the nifty things about smart thermostats like Ecobees is that you can pull usage data from their web portal.
Ecobee also let’s you connect over HomeKit and allows you to control when the internet is out 😉at my old house I actually blocked the mac address for non internal and just had HA automatons take care of the rest.
I actually blocked the mac address for non internal and just had HA automatons take care of the rest.
Can you explain this? Not sure why but I cannot parse that sentence. You blocked external Mac addresses?
I tend to post then disappear lol but what the other person said: at the router level, I added a rule specifically to block a given list of MAC addresses. That included IP cams & the ecobee, then had HA act on data from other sources to adjust temperature.
The one I was proud of was 433mhz door and window sensors that, if opened for too long, would turn off the heat / air and just leave a fan on.
Not OP, but I believe he means he restricted outside internet access to that device (restricted communications to the thermostats MAC address to other internal devices)
Most recently I discovered my house naturally has one of those “the sun will shine exactly here at one time of the year” things going on, like a treasure hunting movie trope. A reflective mosaic on hung my neighbor’s shed is in the right spot that, in late December, sun reflection causes a arc of sunshine to slowly sweep over and brighten up spots on my back porch for an hour or so.
I recently made an ESPHome based weather station that includes a LUX sensor. I was updating a lighting automation so it would turn on sooner during dark mornings using the new sensor and I noticed a daily spike in light. The neighbor put up that mosaic several years ago and it took a HA histogram for me to notice.
Did you use any established project for your weather station or just make it up for yourself? I’ve been interested in building an esphome weather station as well.
I, too, have such an interest. One thing I ran across about two months ago that I thought was neat was a project for a DIY wind gauge with no moving parts.
Awesome. On a similar note, there is a time of the day at a certain part of the year when our TV seems to receive random remote control button pushes. I know it’s solar infrared but hadn’t considered it may be a reflection instead of direct radiation.
I never thought about temperature/humidity sensors! I know some gardeners that use them in various greenhouses, but that’s interesting stuff. Is there anything yall’ve learned about the power efficiency of heating/cooling methods? Currently we’re making a lot of baked goods and stews to keep the house warmer and more humid, but I don’t have any data on actual power use changes.
I’ve had a temp/humidity temperature in all house rooms for a few years now, and it’s dead useful.
Balancing the radiators and TRVs so everything heats up evenly.
Spotting anomalies (top floor loses a lot more heat when the wind is blowing)
And setting the flow temperatures for the radiators, as I can see the rate of heating compared to outside temperatures.
Tell me more about automatically watering plants
I have a Rachio irrigation controller. I’d recommend OpenSprinkler to avoid being tied to a “cloud” service, but I didn’t know that when I purchased my Rachio.
One of my irrigation zones feeds into my greenhouse. It splits off to two solenoid valves. When it’s time to water my plants, HA triggers that zone through the Rachio integration and opens the appropriate solenoid valve that connects to my emitters. If my humidifier gets low, then it does the same thing but opens the other valve.
My electrical system always drops in voltage around 8AM. Power usage in my house remains constant, so maybe more demand on the grid when people are getting ready for work?
If it turns into a problem I wonder if you report that to your power provider they can investigate it. I assume it isn’t much of a drop though 240v to 210v ish drop.
We had a UPS that would report under voltage every winter at a remote radio tower. We sent the info to the power company and a few months later found the issue and we never got an alert again.
I assume it isn’t much of a drop though 240v to 210v ish drop.
If you had that big of a drop, it would likely have already caused the local power grid to trip and turn off. That hardware is not designed to run at a very large frequency differential from normal, and while 30v might not sound like a lot, it’s still enough to massively change the Hz of the AC.
A voltage change on the consumer side means increased current through a resistance somewhere in the line… Something undersized or overloaded, or a bad connection, for that kind of voltage drop.
Still, that should not change the AC frequency of the grid significantly in this case… You’re never going to have a different frequency than the power plants. They’re all sync’d and the entire grid would go down if the frequency changes too much.
Wait, how do you make your smart bulbs turn off and on automatically when you enter/leave a room? I’ve been using them for years and I always have to manually trigger them with an app! And how are you measuring power usage?
- Motion sensors. The mmWave are very sensitive but also expensive. Nice for rooms where you sit still or lie down for longer periods, such as an office or bed room. PIR sensors are the cheap ones, very useful for hallways, stairs, kitchen and toilets.
- Some smart plugs measure current. Innr has a nice zigbee smart plug with a physical button and monitoring for around €20.
FYI If you have a Zigbee bridge, you can just connect most zigbee devices to it and you are not tied to the app or devices of the bridge’s brand.
You’ll want to research “room presence” systems.
Here’s one I’ve been looking at implementing for an example: https://espresense.com/
If you go this route, you’ll absolutely need mmWave sensors as regular PIR sensors only sense movement not presence and you’ll experience lights shutting off when you’re sitting too still in a room. I’ve considered setting this up a few times but want mmWave and PIR sensors with a lux sensor all-in-one and the market for this is extremely small. I think only some sketchy Tuya and the Everything Smart Home youtube channel have sensors like this but they’re expensive and I just haven’t pulled the trigger.
I have a Dyson smart air purifier / heater combo in my room. It has a mostly real time app that shows whether the air is healthy or unhealthy. One night I was laying in bed and felt some gargantuan ass thunder brewing, so I aimed my cheeks toward the Dyson and watched gleefully as my air quality went from green to red. Technology is amazing.
I learned my air filter uses almost no electricity so I just leave it running 24/7 now.
I can see if someone is on the toilet and having a Nr.2 by checking the power draw of the Japanese style toilet. (I also have a presence detector). I do not monitor the first part intentionally, though.
I unintentionally catched some birds eating on camera and that led to us installing a designated bird cam - in a 3D printed bird house. The AI model for identification is still in the works though - there aren’t any good European based ones available as open source so I still will need to work out my own.
I found out the kid is reading FAR more than thought and is using the PC far less than I thought. Sorry kiddo!
CO2 is going up far more than expected,yes. What I found more interesting, though, is the direct connection between the humidity and my sinus infections - I always get them if my room air gets to dry.
Cooking releases an ungodly amount of VOC and uses FAR more electric energy than I thought.
And: After two years of optimisation I can control the temperature in two very sun exposed rooms just by using the covers and a weather forecast extremely well. Means they are up to 4° colder in the summer than before and 10° warmer in winter. Sadly this does not apply to all rooms.
And last but not least: Heating is the only point where home automation really saves energy here.
Do you have induction hobs or traditional electric?
Induction
Huh, I figured induction would be cheaper.
Did you try BirdNET Pi?
Was going to suggest this - I’ve not used it myself but friends have and the model apparently does have fairly good results https://github.com/kahst/BirdNET-Analyzer
You know what, I’ve just checked and birdNET app is the one I use in the field, I thought I was using something from eBird. BirdNET is great for UK birds, I use it all the time! I’m an ecologist doing bird-stuff
I had a terrible run of sinus infections last year so I’ve been using a humidifier and been checking the humidity in the house daily this winter. What percent range do you find is ideal?
I try not to go below 47%
- My TV’s power consumption is basically doubled when the input is running at 2160p compared to 1080p.
- Running the portable AC in my office for more than 24 hours causes it to cycle off and on because the humidity collection sump fills up and needs to be emptied (it throws a completely unhelpful error of ‘Low Temperature’).
That’s really interesting with your TV. I would actually expect power consumption to increase with 1080p since it’s having to upsample the input to match your native resolution. Unless you’re playing 4k content on a 1080p panel, in which case it makes more sense.
Note to self: game at 1080p with glasses off to lower electrical costs
Outdoor temperatures always go up when it’s raining.
Are you saying the outside weather temperature rises when it starts to rain, or am I understanding that incorrectly?
It’s probably rain clouds trapping heat from escaping into the atmosphere, and humid air equalizing the temp by sucking heat off of high heat capacity surfaces like rocks and cement, warming the air.
That’s just my guess though. I have no relevant scientific expertise.
Along a similar line, ground temp (~200mm deep) lags air temps by about 12 hours
Depending on the location, but
- Often rain comes along for the ride on a warm front as it moves over the property (although cold fronts also carry rain)
- In winter, the rainclouds act as insulation and so rainy days are warmer than blue-sky days
