Only if you’re logged in as an Administrator though. A “standard” user account can’t access WiFi passwords on Windows.

I’m not too knowledgeable on that topic, but doesn’t Linux store WiFi or smb-share passwords in some keychain?

Edit: missread your comment a little, I’m guessing you meant that there are multiple different keychains on Linux

I just read the full article, and I’m not even that concerned about storing the key in plaintext. I find the possibility of copying the files, and then being able to run the same session simultaneously a lot scarier.

As the article states, currently all processes are able to read the file which contains the key. Instead, you could store the key in the macOS Keychain (and Linux/Windows equivalents), which AFAIK is a list of all sorts of sensitive data (think WiFi passwords etc.), encrypted with your user password. I believe the Keychain also only let’s certain processes see certain entries, so the Signal Desktop App could see only its own encryption key, whereas for example iMessage would only see the iMessage encryption key.

We always freeze all our bread, we don’t eat it fast enough for it to not go bad (is this a weird take??).

But yeah thawing bread in the microwave is roughhhh, we either use a toaster or just let it thaw at room temperature.

It seems to also have american stations, I’d recommend you still give it a try.

I was never in a situation where I had to choose which fliphone to buy, but most don’t have a normal headphone jack, with a decent number of them also using a fully proprietary headphone port. So I guess I’d look out for it having a normal USB connection and ideally a fullsize headphone jack, or at least one of those smaller diameter jacks.

I don’t know its source for stations, but Transistor has direkt links for many German radio stations and probably other regions too.

I still vastly prefer FM, DAB or Satellite radio, but when those aren’t available Transistor is a nice alternative.

I believe Blurays are still a very good medium for long term data storage, like a cold offsite backup.

Same! I’m lowkey tempted to get a fancy one now, but deep down I know it just isn’t worth it.

https://github.com/Akylas/OSS-DocumentScanner

I use this app for scanning documents, I just tried sharing a picture to the app and running OCR on that picture, which also worked fine, so it should also fit your usecase.

Damn even though you explained the abbreviation I still read it as Wife Approval Factor for a second and was very confused

If you care to minimize Standby power “comfortably”, usually libraries or power companies will let you borrow an AC Power Meter free of charge.

You can use that to inspect your various devices Standby Power. For example I have an amplifier that pulls nearly 15W in standby, since finding out it lives on a smart plug.

However my TV pulls less than 1W, and at that point I prefer the convenience of just being able to use the remote to turn it on.

(Also keep in mind with the smart plug solution that the plug itself will pull a little bit of power too, this will pretty much always be <1W though.)

I don’t know how it works in America, but in Germany and presumably most parts of Europe, red light cameras are triggered by coils under the road (similar to speed cameras). There’s usually one coil right past the stopping line (for cars being halfway over) and another coil somewhere closer to the center of the intersection (for fully running a red light).

If your hate only goes towards touchscreens and not having physical buttons, Mazda is (or at least was) very anti-touchscreen. I haven’t done any research on their current stance or if they have good EVs, but a neighbor of mine was really happy with his Mazda ICE car for having a button for everything.

It’s not a full car or even entertainment system, but comma.ai is an opensource autonomous driving software. Last time I looked into this was a few years ago, but basically for most newer cars you can rip out the adaptive cruise control, and effevtively replace it with autonomous driving. Either powered by certain supported phones or dedicated hardware.

In that case you can try adding before:2023 or similar to your search

You could try getting a Raspberry Pi Zero together with some kind of SPDIF output card, but that will probably go over $30.

I have no idea what pricing is like, but you could possibly try getting a used Logitech Squeezebox player.

If you’re desperate to stay on the cheap and don’t mind BT quality, you could also install Snapcast on an old phone, enable the Snapcast player provider and then use the phone to connect to your speakers over Bluetooth.

Imo it looks to be very bloated for what I want. I don’t need (or necessarily want) a GPS track for the whole journey, but rather just start and endpoint. I intend to tell the distance from my cars odometer.

Also I already started making my own app by now anyway and I’m far too committed to consider other options lol

Hm using Tasker for this is actually a really good idea, thanks!