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Hey mate, I keep my filament in a dry cabinet at 5ish% humidity, and I’ve had the same results with two different filaments in there. I even chucked my filament in a food dehydrator at 40C for 12h with no effect. I’m pretty sure the filament is dry!
Hey mate, I keep my filament in a dry cabinet at 5ish% humidity, and I’ve had the same results with two different filaments in there. I even chucked my filament in a food dehydrator at 40C for 12h with no effect. I’m pretty sure the filament is dry!
I love these! Thanks for sharing!
After sleeping on it, I remembered that my new heatbreak doesn’t feed the bowden all the way to the end of the nozzle like the stock one does, so I’m pretty sure I have it seated correctly. I’ll check it though, many thanks for the info! :)
I know esun is quite popular, but I never tried it.
I’ve generally had the best results with it. Ironically, before the upgrades I had almost no stringing.
I’m using a 0.4mm nozzle. I probably should have mentioned in the OP that I didn’t have problems before, but the upgrades have happened in addition to moving to Orcaslicer.
Now I’m worried if I’ve got my Bowden tube seated in the hotend correctly…
Thanks for the reply mate!
I didn’t think to mess with z-hop - I’ll give that a go, and I’ll do some testing to make sure the Bowden is seated correctly and the wipe on retract is actually happening - thanks!
The print in the image is a ‘torture test’, and just something I had on hand to illustrate the issue. I’m actually not fussed if there is still some stringing at the top, but other detailed prints were getting it pretty bad, including retraction towers.
It’s all good mate! Thanks for the suggestion. When I first started printing I had that exact issue.